Winter in Iceland
A month ago we had no idea that we would be taking an impromptu trip to explore Iceland. But a group text from Brian Patrick Flynn and Charlotte asking if we would be interested in joining their expedition was all we needed to book tickets immediately. Some of the best trips are those you didn’t plan for - and this would serve as the perfect inspiration for our upcoming project.
We have visited Iceland before - as part of honeymoon in June 2016 - a time of year when the sun never sets and the landscape is lush. Visiting in January was a very different experience - as if we have visited two completely different countries. The only thing unchanged was the hospitality of the Icelandic people.
Iceland - June 2016
Language: Iceland is a very easy place to visit as an english speaker. Everyone we spoke to was either fluent in english or at least knew enough to get by. The hardest parts is reading street signs - where every proper noun is no less than 36 characters (many of which we have never seen).
Money: Converting from Icelandic Króna where a coffee will run you about 700kr is a bit surprising of a number - never mind the 21,000kr dinner bill - and we relied heavily on an app to understand what things cost. The upside? Iceland, like much of Europe, is paid a fair hourly rate and doesn’t have a tipping culture - so no tacking on of that extra 20%. Generally speaking Iceland imports many of its goods and as a result it’s quite an expensive place to visit.
Lastly - it’s the middle of the winter and the days are short. We didn’t mind this as much as we had imagined and it created a sense of scarcity. We wanted to get as much in as we could and appreciated all of the sunlight we got.
ACCOMMODATIONS & Travel
We flew Icelandair from Boston on a direct flight of only 4 hours and 40 minutes. The major airport is in Keflavík, just under an hour south of Reykjavik, and we took a bus/shuttle combination that ran on the hour and delivered us to our hotel. We didn’t buy these tickets in advance and they were pretty easy to pick up at the airport. By the time we landed we were 5 hours in the future and feeling a bit sleepy.
We stayed at the Grandi by Center Hotels which was perfect. The room was comfortable, a big breakfast included, wifi, cafe, bar, and centrally located - everything we needed and highly recommended.
Day 1 - Heading South
We started our day with a continental breakfast and a trip to the gym, waking up our bodies and watching the sun rise, before jumping in the car for road trip south. We put in about 400km (250miles) and drove for about 6 hours - and the time flew by. The landscape is ever changing and you can’t take your eyes off it.
Stop 1: Seljalandsfoss
The waterfall (foss) in Seljaland was absolutely stunning. There is no hiking required and you can see the falls from the road if you were to just drive past. There is a metered lot and a small shop along with food and restrooms.
The gang at Seljalandsfoss - Brian Patrick Flynn and Charlotte
Stop 2: Reyniskirkja Church
Located at the top of a hill overlooking the town of Vik was a great spot to stop to take in the scene and for a few photos. Just beyond the town you can see the ocean and black basalt beaches.
David & Charlotte at Reyniskirkja Church
Stop 3: Reynisfjara beach
Probably the most dangerous stop during our trip (not kidding) this is the only black sand beach in all of Iceland. For us, the moon was full and the tide was in, resulting in massive and irregular waves. We always kept one eye on the water as its been known to sweep beach goers away to sea. The black sand was formed when molten lava met the ocean, broken down with time to the sand it is today.
After our time at the beach we stopped at the small, and adorable, Black Beach Restaurant on site to warm up and grab a drink before starting the drive home.
Day 2 - Heading North
Another day of adventure and no time for the gym - we grabbed breakfast and headed north. Settling into the new time zone wasn’t too bad as we stayed up late the night before and rose early with excitement. For the duration of the trip we actually went to bed around the same time as we would have if we were home.
Halfway to Borgarnes - Moon Setting
Stop 1: Town of Borgarnes
We headed north without a plan and ended up in the Town of Borgarnes. The drive north was absolutely beautiful and we stopped more than once to grab a few photos. We didn’t choose Borgarnes exactly - it felt more as if it chose us - because we ended up in the most delightful places. For whatever reason though - this was one of the coldest places i’ve ever been - mustache frozen. Maybe it’s because its along a fjord, and the main purpose for heading this direction.
Stop 2: Blómasetrið Cafe
You know that feeling when you are really hungry and you eat something and it’s “the best you have ever had”. The Blómasetrið Cafe did that on every level. We warmed up, had a latte, ate an amazing chocolate waffle, all while surrounded by the most eclectic decor layered with Christmas decoration. You could not have made this place up and we found ourselves sunken into the sofas reading the guest books of years past.
On the way home we came across a group of Icelandic horses. They were so excited to see us and nuzzled right up, magical.
Stop 3: Perlan
To end our day we stopped at the Perlan which is a mixture of exhibitions, a restaurant, and observation deck. We even took a moment for the northern lights video in which we fooled many of you watching our stories. They even have the world’s first indoor ice cave cut from a glacier which you can explore at a very cold temperature (don’t leave your coat in the car).
We didn’t have dinner plans so we ate at the top of the Perlan and had a great meal. It happened to be epiphany and happened to catch fireworks all around the city.
After a couple of hours at dinner - we were exhausted and thought for sure it was midnight, a quick glance at the phone however and it read something like 6:30 - time isn’t real.
Day 3 - Staying Local
We got a late start - missed breakfast - and made a last minute reservation for the Sky Lagoon (we would recommend booking the Sky Lagoon / Blue Lagoon in advance, especially during touristy months). The day turned out perfectly and we were all happy to go with the flow while staying close to Reykjavik.
Stop 1: Sky Lagoon
A bit of a different experience than the Blue Lagoon (we wanted to do both but ran out of time) we did the Ritual add-on which was a great way to add a little something extra. The facilities were clean and the entire experience was wonderful. We sat in the bath water - aperol spritz in hand - and chatted for an hour or so. We ended with the Ritual and left feeling energetic and inspired.
Stop 2: Town Of Seltjarnarnes
We took 10 minute drive down the coast to the Town of Seltjarnarnes where we seemingly met the end of the world. The sky was grey and it felt like we were living in a black and white filter. The sights were breathtakingly beautiful.
Stop 3: Reykjavik Shopping
The downtown / shopping area is filled with cute shops and places to eat. We drank coffee, bopped around, and had a lot of food.
We visited Hallgrímskirkja and purchased tickets to the very top where we could overlook the the town.
View of the town from Hallgrímskirkja bell tower.
A short walk to the stunning Harba (Reykjavic Music Hall).
Dinner at ROK - tapas style and delicious and recommended by many of you!
We capped off the evening with a trip to Kiki Queer Bar for a few drink and drag show - perfect ending to an otherwise perfect day.
Day 4 - Local Treats & Seeing Charlotte Off
We started our day with brunch at The Laundromat Cafe and a trip to the Kolaportid Flea Market. We didn’t buy anything and had the best time explaining why we wanted ice in our coffee. After a melancholy drive to see Charlotte off we made one last stop down a snowy road to visit the Brimskettle lava pool.
The Laundromat Cafe came highly recommended by so many of you, and we agree, it was perfect!
We wrapped up the day sans Charlotte with some Pizza, Gym, and Fly Over Iceland (think Soarin for Iceland) which was a great way to see many of the sights we didn’t have the time to get to. We opted for a nightcap at the hotel bar and said our goodnights.
Day 5 - Saying Goodbye
We spent the day taking our time and appreciating the final moments. We had coffee at the hotel and started this blog post before heading back to the gym (not sure why we were so motivated this week!) and finished by heading to the airport - not without a quick trip to the mall to kill an hour or so.
In Summary
We are so happy to have taken this impromptu trip. With our amazing travel companions we had no firm plans and went with the flow - and the results were magical. We feel so energized and inspired to take on 2023 and all of the amazing projects to come.
One of the things we spoke of during our many hours in the car were all of the ways we could achieve such a trip in our own backyard. There is this idea that you need to go to a far away place for an amazing new experience when all you need is an imagination, sense of wonder, and some whimsy. And a great travel companion never hurts.
Happy Travels,
David & Stephen
